Jackets Buying Guide
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With such a wide range of waterproof and breathable jackets to choose from, all sporting different materials, the latest technologies and varying price tags, it can be hard to differentiate between the options and decide which is best for you and your chosen activity. Waterproof and breathable materials are designed to act as a shield to protect you against the elements, keeping you and your clothing dry, whilst also enabling your body to breathe by allowing perspiration vapour to escape; maintaining a comfortable body temperature during exertion. This part of the 'jackets buying guide' is designed to show you how waterproof and breathable technology works and how different jacket designs are constructed.
To learn more about specific fabric technology by brands such as GORE-TEX, Berghaus and The North Face please see our Fabric Guide.
What does 'waterproof' and 'breathable' mean?
Without complicating the matter, a water-resistant garment is designed to protect you during a light rain, sleet or snow shower, whereas a waterproof garment will offer you greater protection in heavier, more constant conditions.
According to the English dictionary, the definition of waterproof is: any fabric impervious to water (not letting water through). Sounds obvious and very clear cut, but to conform to British Standards, for a garment to be called waterproof, a fabric must be able to withstand 2.1 pounds per square inch (psi) for low activity use such as golfing and fashion, and for high activity use such as hill walking and skiing, 7.1 psi. To give you some idea of what this means, 1 psi is roughly equivalent to rain hitting a jacket at 35mph and it is possible to exert a pressure of 15psi on a fabric when kneeling on it. Few manufacturers' state how waterproof their fabric is and those that do use so many different testing methods that it is difficult to compare between the different fabrics.
As well as a fabric being waterproof we have to consider the seams of the garment. You can have the best waterproof fabric in the world, but if you stitch pieces of fabric together you create a weak spot for water to find a way through. The only way to prevent water from penetrating the garment is to seal the seams!
Our advice would be to keep a few key things in mind when buying your jacket: What do you want to use it for: high exertion activities or simply to keep you dry on your way to work? What climates are you planning on wearing it in- are you likely to encounter light showers or is there a risk of heavy downpours? What is important to you?
A breathable material allows moisture vapour from inside the garment to escape to the outside edge of the fabric, where it can then be evaporated. The correct term for breathability is: Moisture vapour transmission.
Depending on the clothing system and the environment, our bodies can give off around half a litre of moisture vapour in an hour when on an easy walk; heavy exertion can release up to a litre or more. To prevent discomfort, this moisture vapour must evaporate and not be trapped within the garment.
How do jackets become waterproof and breathable?
In short, waterproofing and breathability are achieved by a laminate or coating technology on the inside of the jacket fabric and a durable water repellent (DWR) finish on the outside. Finally the seams are sealed and then away you go!
Inside
A laminate is a waterproof/breathable membrane that is bonded to the inside of the jacket fabric. The membrane is an incredibly thin, web-like structure containing countless tiny pores. These microscopic holes mean water droplets are too large to penetrate through them from the outside of the jacket, but they are big enough for sweat vapour to escape out from the inside.
Most commonly known laminates are PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) and polyurethane (PU) membranes, used in the well known Gore-Tex and eVent technology.
A coating is a liquid solution of polyurethane mechanically spread on the inside of a jacket at manufacturing; providing waterproof/breathable characteristics for a lower price. Coating follows the same concept of laminates in that water droplets are unable to penetrate the fabric, but perspiration can escape out via tiny passageways or holes created in the coating. An example of this is microporous coating where a foaming agent is added to the coating solution, creating tiny gas bubbles to form and expand. When the solution becomes solid it creates permanent interconnecting holes, similar to the pores in laminates but less sophisticated. (There are two ways of creating a coating: microporous and monolithic.)
Trusted brands such as Berghaus and The North Face both use coating for their AQ and HyVent technologies.
Outside
Durable Water Repellence is a coating added to fabrics at the factory to make them water-resistant (or hydrophobic). DWR's are separate from laminates and coatings as they are only used on the outside. They are engineered to prevent the fabric from becoming saturated with water (known as 'wetting out') and weighing you down; protecting you against any sensation of dampness. A DWR coating causes water beads to run off the fabric, as wetting out can reduce the jackets breathability. Abrasion, body oils, grime and washing the fabric in everyday household detergents can reduce the performance of the DWR. To ensure a DWR coating remains effective, a waterproof jacket must be regularly cleaned and periodically renewed using specialist spray-on or wash-in products like those from Nikwax and Grangers.
How rainwear is constructed
Because laminates and coatings can be quite delicate and therefore at risk to damage from abrasion, all waterproof jackets employ a type of inner layer. This inner layer is engineered to reinforce protection against the risk of potential abrasion, which can lead to leakage channels within the fabric. The inner layer designs are describes as 2-layer, 2.5-layer and 3 layer; see examples below to learn more!
2 layer
budget friendly
Why 2 layers?
Either a laminate or coating is applied to the inside of the fabric forming the 1st layer and then a loose hanging lining (often mesh) is stitched to the interior; forming the 2nd layer. As mentioned earlier, the 2 layer design is to reinforce the fabric against abrasion damage which can cause causing leakage.
- Usually less breathable than the 2.5 and 3 layer designs
- Intended for moderate activities, recreational use and urban wear
- Basic design and technology but budget friendly!
2.5 layer
lightweight option
Why 2.5 layers?
Similar to the 2 layer concept except a light-weight fabric forms the 1st layer and then a PU based (Polyurethane) laminate or coating is used for the 2nd layer. Finally the slightest of inner layer (more like a sheen, this is why it is referred to as .5 of a layer) is attached to the inside of the 2nd layer to form the 2.5 layer design.
- Great for space and weight restricted travellers
- A lightweight and breathable option
- Less durable and abrasion-resistant than 3 layers
3 layer
most durable
Why 3 layers?
No coatings are used in 3 layer designs. A laminate (2nd layer) is tightly sandwiched between the outer-shell fabric (1st layer) and an internal liner (3rd layer), creating a 3 layer effect. Designers are constantly reviewing styles and technologies to see if they can be improved or refined; striving for the ultimate breathable and durable finish.
- Great for serious outdoor enthusiasts
- Optimum durability at a low weight
- Sleek and athletic cut with a tough exterior
© Blacks Outdoor Retail Ltd. 2012
